Lisbon: Ferry Ride to Almada

Kirk wanted to check out the statue of Christ, “Cristo Rei” (Christ the King) which was modeled after the Chrst the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.  Today’s adventure would take a trolly, the metro, a ferry and a bus ride. This also took us through the beautiful Praco de Comercio, a large square opening up Lisbon to tbe Targus River, bustling with activity.  The impressive city gateway that draws you in ftom the square, the mosaic work as far as you can see, the statues, street artists -they are all a lot to take in along the way.  And a little history lesson:

The 25 de Abril Bridge, the Golden Gate look-a-like, was opened in 1966, with the train tracks underneath added later in 1999.  It was built by The American Bridge Company and spans 2,277 meters across the Tagus river connecting Lisbon to Almada. The bridge was originally named Salazar Bridge until 1974, and renamed to commemorate the Carnation Revolution.

The Cristo Rei is a monument dedicated to God for saving Portugal from the effects of WWII – Portugal did not participate. The construction was approved in a Portuguese Episcopate conference held in Fatima on April 20, 1940, as a plea to God to release Portugal from entering WWII, however it was not until 1952 that construction began.

Lisbon, Portugal: Day Trip to Sintra

Now that our friends are here, we decided that for our first adventure, we would grab some breakfast and head to tbe train station to get tickets to Sintra. Sintra is a resort town that used to be a Royal sanctuary. It is now a National Park and home to many castles and beautiful villas, many of which you can tour.  We decided to hop on a “Hop On Hop Off” bus to take the two hour tour around, passing by several villas, castles, and scenic overlooks.

We stopped at the western most spot of the European continent.  (Side Note: Last year, around this same time, Kirk and I were at the eastern most spot of the USA). We continued on around and decided to hop off the bus to explore the Pena Palace, which was the summer residence of the royal family, King Ferdinand and Queen Maria II.  The palace was first constructed as a monastery in the 15th century, then remodeled/tranformed into their palace using styles from several influences such as Knights Templar and Islamic, while preserving features from the original monastery.  It was finally completed in 1854 as the Pena Palace. After the Portuguese Revolution of 1910, the palace was run by the state and in 1995 became an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The surrounding grounds and gardens were designed with the then King’s collection of various species of plants collected from around the world. The King supported science and the arts.  He had also bought up much of the surrounding properties, the Moorish Castle, and a few villas to preserve Portuguese history.

This was a jaw-dropping structure, with intricate detail in just about everything you could see! The artwork, carved furniture, raised/carved walls, the views from the terraces, and the surrounding lakes and gardens are all spectacular!

Lisbon, Portugal: Too Big and Beautiful Not to Share

Still waiting for our friends to arrive and get settled in tbeir place.  We decided to go to get some food and supplies for the week.  After a lovely dinner at home, we set out to locate our friends, Russ and Judy, who had flown in to Lisbon after their trip to Ireland, Scotland and England.  The four of us met a couple years ago in Israel, while cruising in the Holy lands. We have kept in touch and met up a couple of times over the years.

Whatever this week holds in store for us, it is sure to include lots of laughs!

Lisbon: Open Air Market at Monastery of São Vicente de Fora

While waiting for our friends to arrive in Lisbon, we decided to walk up the hill to check out the open air market at the Monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora.  This is the largest church in Lisbon, with construction beginning in the 16th century.  The taxi driver told us that the market is held there every Saturday and we could find good values…”local pricing, not tourist pricing”.

So, before I continue, let me remind you that we have recently sold off 85% of all our possessions to downsize into the 46 liter packs we are carrying, and;

  1. We don’t really need anything;
  2. We have no room and no desire to haul extra things half way around the world with us;
  3. “Stuff” is no longer in our budget.

However, I must also disclose that, while the reality of not needing anything is solid, the “want” is still lingering.  Wandering through the market, you can find anything from stamps and coins for collections, to antiquities, to clothing.  There were new, handmade wears to swap meet type booths.  You name it…it was there!  Kirk and I wandered through for over an hour and left with a few photos and fond memories.

Monastery of Sao Vicente / Our Back Yard

 

 

Lisbon, Portugal: Our Home in the Alfama District

After doing some research, Kirk & I agreed that we wanted to spend our time in the Alfama District, which is the oldest part of Lisbon.  We also agreed that it would be fun to be in a neighborhood with the local residents, rather than in a hotel in a tourist area.  We found our spot on AirBnB, so nestled into the Alfama side-streets that even the taxi drivers did not know where it was and directions were provided by our host based on “down the alley by this restaurant”…

Once we figured out where we were, Isabel, a lovely lady, let us in to the building and showed us around our apartment – up four flights of stairs.  It was a two-story apartment with kitchen, living room, and full bath downstairs and bedroom with a halfbath upstairs, including beautiful views looking out to the harbor from our terrace.

There are narrow, cobblestone streets and the famous 28 Trolly rattles by just feet from the entrance to our home.  There are several little neighborhood restaurants and markets.  In fact, it seems typical that all the neighborhoods are mix-use, with businesses on the street level with apartments above.  In any Alfama neighborhood, you are likely to find anything you might need from fresh breads, pastries, fruits and meats, to gifts, to clothing, to spirits.  There are larger stores located off larger squares throughout as well.  There are squares with fountains, statues or gardens dotted throughout the maze of winding cobblestone streets AND I don’t think we walked a block anywhere there was not at least one or two churches – most were spectacular and dating back hundreds of years.

I was glad that Kirk and I built up our leg muscles in Porto so we were up to the challenges of the Alfama streets.  What a picturesque area!

Ponta Delgada, San Miguel Island, Azores: Out and About

First, I’m disappointed  that neither Kirk or I had our cameras out when we landed in Ponta Delgada.  The welcome made me feel like royalty!  Men, women and children were at the terminal exit greeting arriving passengers with flowers and a variety of local treats from the Azores.  I received a Hydrangia bigger than my head and found out the Hydrangia grows wild here.

Second, we had reservations at The Talisman Hotel.  Since we were only here a few days, we decided to stay in a hotel rather than an AirBnB.  It was a 4 star hotel, and included breakfast and free Wi-Fi,  but it was a basic double bed or two twin room.  However, when we got to our room, we had been upgraded to a suite!  There is a living room, huge marble bathroom with a jacuzzi tub, a king size bed and a large balcony overlooking a pedestrian street below.  You can look out to the ocean, just blocks away.  Score!!! We also discovered a statue in the garden courtyard next to the hotel with the name Freitas.  The Freitas family in Santa Maria are long-time friends.

The island weather is very tropical – humid, with an occasional downpour of warm rain.  Side note – my hair does not fair well in this environment…oh well.  I appologize for offensive pics (not really).  The buildings are beautiful – some are traditional volcanic rock with white washed walls, some art deco and some more modern. Throughout the island, all the sidewalks are mosiac and the buildings are also decorated with tiles.  The people are friendly and helpful, with most speaking enough english to point us in the right direction.

We celebrated our anniversary at a cute sidewalk cafe just up the block.  We went to the open market to shop for local items for lunch.  The gentleman selling fruit selected a couple of bananas for us and a pineapple, which he even cut up for us.  We tasted some of the cheeses of the island and purchased a small chunk of medium sharp cheese.  We also purchased Azorian style bread called Bolo Levedo, which a thick, soft, rounds that are slightly sweet.  Grapes and apples rounded out our shopping and it all made for a wonderful picnic.  The pineapple is a variety of San Miguel Island which is smaller than our Hawaiian type, but it was like candy!  So delicious!

After our picnic, we got caught in a tropical downpour.  I tried to do my best Debbie Reynolds impression on tbe steps of a museum while “Gene” filmed.  This rain is typical and people on the streets disappeared so quickly!  They all just tuck in to doorways until the storm passes.  The rain lasts for about 5 minutes and then everything clears up and people move about again.

We are still digging Portugal!  Next stop – Lisbon.  Our friends, Russ and Judy will be joining up with us there.  THAT will be an adventure!

San Miguel Island, Azores: Ribeira Grande, Caldera Vehla and Lagoa Do Fogo

Today’s adventure included day two of the Yellow Bus Tour.  We headed out of Ponta Delgada and headed north to Ribeira Grande, which is the 2nd largest city on this island.  There are fumaroles where they cook a local specialty of meat, sausages, and vegetables for 6 hours and serve up in the local restaurants.  We went up to Caldera Vehla to see the beautiful water falls and hot springs.  There are two pools, one that is 100 degrees and the other is 70 degrees.  The sulpher spring was 140 degrees and even the ground was hot around it.  Everything there was the most lush and green I think I have ever seen.  We drove on up to the top of the island to look down over Lagoa Do Fogo (Lake of Fire), which is a lake inside the cone of the volcano.  The vistas from there were so beautiful!  

San Miguel Island, Azores: Sete Cidades

It is our Anniversary today! We purchased 2 two-day tickets for the Yellow Bus for 36 euros, and set off to explore the western part of the island today and we will do the eastern part tomorrow. Of course the Sete Cidades lakes were breathtaking! Two separate lakes in the crator of a volcano, one green and one blue.  Legand has it that a princess fell in love with a shepherd and the families forbid them from being together, so their tears filled the lakes.  The drive around the loop is beautiful, with the hills so green and ocean so blue, contrasted by the black lava rock.  The Hydrangia is the common flower here and grows wild along the roads acting like a fence in most places.  The dairy cattle dot the landscape…the cheese is really good here, probably because the cows are so happy.  When we got around to Sete Cidades, the driver told us we could go up in this abandoned hotel for the best view.  That was a trip! But what a view!  There are lots of pics, but enjoy the recap of today’s highlights.

Adulting: Laundry Day

So, when you have limited wardrobe because you are traveling light, you eventually run out of clean socks and chonies.  On one of our “let’s see what’s down this street” walks, Kirk noticed a really nice, modern laundromat.  So, this this afternoon, we gathered up our clothes and headed out.  On the way there, we noticed a lot of clothes hanging from the windows and balconies…it must be laundry day for everyone today.

At the Lavanardia do Infante, the machines have the soap and softner in them and dispense automatically.  You put your money in the main vending machine, pick your washer, water temperature and start.  We were the only ones there in the beginning, then it became a party!  There was free wifi, so I got some posting done.  We met another couple from the states, Leonard & Elizabeth, who just arrived in Porto, but have been traveling through some of the places we are heading, so we exchanged some tips.

Day Trippin’ Via Train to Aviero

Two round trip tickets from the Sao Bento station to Aviero was just under 15 euros.  We decided to go because they call it the Venice of Portugal because they have natural canals.  The Moliceiro boats are now used for tourism, but they were used to haul salt (major industry there) and gather seaweed (Molico) to fertilize the fields. I love quaint, tiny streets and unique architecture, so this place was right up my alley today.

These first few shots from our train window of two of the six bridges over the Douro River connecting the two halves of Porto.  As you arrive in Aviero and exit the modern train station, you see the old train station and head down Av Dr. Lourenco Peixinho and eventually, you will come to the canals and the quaint shops and neighborhoods.  The colors, tile work, mosaic walkways, and intricate architectural details were beautiful.

We wandered the streets for several hours and entered a fish market for fun…they had some ugly looking stuff on display!  We wandered past a fire station and I asked if I could take a picture with the firemen there, but they didn’t want anything to do with me and dispursed quickly laughing.  We got a chuckle over it as well, “Run! It is a giant, strange, blonde woman!” LOL

We also found Kirk’s next truck…haha. Well, it is about downsizing.  We finally made our way back around to get on a boat and tour the canals. After our tour, we grabbed some lunch at a little cafe’ and headed back to the train station and back to Porto.  The other fun take-aways were watching the people on the train, looking into the open doorways while wandering through the streets, meeting a young lady from New Jersey who had moved her family there six months ago, and spending another great day with my best friend.